Thanks to Ohioan taxpayers, I was able to live in a dorm all 4.5 years that I was a full-time student at Miami. During my victory lap, I was in the Scholar Leader program, and it just so happens that the Scholar Leader RA is a Fulbright researcher in Jordan! We didn't know each other especially well, but when both of us ended up with Fulbrights, we joked about visiting each other at some point. P may not have realized that I'm pretty serious when it comes to making travel plans. :)
I got the impression that the German Fulbright Kommission was less than thrilled when they received my email requesting permission to go to Jordan for a week. I had to go on the American and German embassy sites and prove that there were no travel warnings. The paranoia was unnecessary: at the moment, Jordan is an oasis of calmness and peace.
I was fascinated by the mix of modernity and history. It's not uncommon to see shepherds riding camels while talking on cell phones. At malls, women wear everything from burqas (least common) to hijab and modest clothing (most common) to the latest Western fashion trends (semi-common). Some women work outside the home, although I get the impression that they're encouraged to choose stereotypically "feminine" jobs. Women are treated better in Jordan than in many MENA countries, but that's not to say that Jordan isn't sexist. It is. Some examples of little things that I had to respect, even as a tourist: I had to remind myself not to run every time I crossed the street (in my defense, I don't have the modesty issue that many women have...!); I couldn't sit up front with a taxi driver; and I had to wear fairly modest clothes to avoid attracting unwanted attention. Other interesting combinations: P's apartment has high-speed internet, but you can't drink the tap water. There is hot water for showers, but you can't flush toilet paper down the toilet. (There's a garbage can.)
On Thursday afternoon, P and I drove down to Wadi Musa with two British guys who live upstairs. We got there just in time for a quick dinner and for the Petra at Night tour. (For the record, I preferred Petra in the daytime.) The following morning, we wandered through Petra for about five hours. The hotel drove us down to the entrance gate, and we rode with three British tourists (two were English, one was Welsh) who had just arrived from Israel. One of the women was very chatty and told us all about Biblical predictions, complete with Scriptural references. Apparently, Petra will be very important during the End Times-- and it's getting closer! We're almost to the end of an age! For the rest of the day, P and I joked about hoping that the world would end that day: I'd take great pictures and videos and would sell them to National Geographic!
There aren't synonyms that can do Petra justice. Stunning. Amazing. None of these really encompass my thoughts, but maybe some pictures will do. P and I looked at the Great Temple for a few minutes before climbing up to the monastery (about a 25 minute climb). After stopping for lunch back at the bottom, I decided that my legs were feeling all right, so I told P that I wanted to climb to the High Place of Sacrifice (about 30 minutes uphill). Somehow, we took the wrong trail back, and it took 30-45 minutes longer than we had anticipated to get to the bottom. The back route is more interesting, though, so it was worth it!
The following day, I went with S (one of P's flatmates) and her mom to the Holiday Inn resort next to the Dead Sea. Yes, you float. I tried to walk as far as possible, but I lost my footing when I was about waist-high in water and ended up on my back.
I'm running out of steam, so I have a few more shoutouts. We had Easter with a group of Americans and Brits. Thanks to everyone for cooking, to L (I think?) for hosting, and to S for giving me a tour of the neighborhood! I also want to woot-woot at Hashim's for having amazing food. Garlicky hummus, beany fuul, all vegetarian. Go there. Mmmm. And, of course, Vielen Dank and shukran to P for letting me sleep in one of her beds!
I got the impression that the German Fulbright Kommission was less than thrilled when they received my email requesting permission to go to Jordan for a week. I had to go on the American and German embassy sites and prove that there were no travel warnings. The paranoia was unnecessary: at the moment, Jordan is an oasis of calmness and peace.
I was fascinated by the mix of modernity and history. It's not uncommon to see shepherds riding camels while talking on cell phones. At malls, women wear everything from burqas (least common) to hijab and modest clothing (most common) to the latest Western fashion trends (semi-common). Some women work outside the home, although I get the impression that they're encouraged to choose stereotypically "feminine" jobs. Women are treated better in Jordan than in many MENA countries, but that's not to say that Jordan isn't sexist. It is. Some examples of little things that I had to respect, even as a tourist: I had to remind myself not to run every time I crossed the street (in my defense, I don't have the modesty issue that many women have...!); I couldn't sit up front with a taxi driver; and I had to wear fairly modest clothes to avoid attracting unwanted attention. Other interesting combinations: P's apartment has high-speed internet, but you can't drink the tap water. There is hot water for showers, but you can't flush toilet paper down the toilet. (There's a garbage can.)
On Thursday afternoon, P and I drove down to Wadi Musa with two British guys who live upstairs. We got there just in time for a quick dinner and for the Petra at Night tour. (For the record, I preferred Petra in the daytime.) The following morning, we wandered through Petra for about five hours. The hotel drove us down to the entrance gate, and we rode with three British tourists (two were English, one was Welsh) who had just arrived from Israel. One of the women was very chatty and told us all about Biblical predictions, complete with Scriptural references. Apparently, Petra will be very important during the End Times-- and it's getting closer! We're almost to the end of an age! For the rest of the day, P and I joked about hoping that the world would end that day: I'd take great pictures and videos and would sell them to National Geographic!
There aren't synonyms that can do Petra justice. Stunning. Amazing. None of these really encompass my thoughts, but maybe some pictures will do. P and I looked at the Great Temple for a few minutes before climbing up to the monastery (about a 25 minute climb). After stopping for lunch back at the bottom, I decided that my legs were feeling all right, so I told P that I wanted to climb to the High Place of Sacrifice (about 30 minutes uphill). Somehow, we took the wrong trail back, and it took 30-45 minutes longer than we had anticipated to get to the bottom. The back route is more interesting, though, so it was worth it!
The Treasury
An assortment of tombs
The following day, I went with S (one of P's flatmates) and her mom to the Holiday Inn resort next to the Dead Sea. Yes, you float. I tried to walk as far as possible, but I lost my footing when I was about waist-high in water and ended up on my back.
I'm running out of steam, so I have a few more shoutouts. We had Easter with a group of Americans and Brits. Thanks to everyone for cooking, to L (I think?) for hosting, and to S for giving me a tour of the neighborhood! I also want to woot-woot at Hashim's for having amazing food. Garlicky hummus, beany fuul, all vegetarian. Go there. Mmmm. And, of course, Vielen Dank and shukran to P for letting me sleep in one of her beds!
Hi! I was also stalking fulbrighters and came across your blog! I have a question, I go to UNC and I want to apply for a scholarship (research) but I am thinking that b/c i don't have the greatest gpa (3.4) i'm a little out of my league. I'm only a soph. right now, so I have time to bring it up, but how important do you think the gpa requirements are? i know that is no minimum requirement but that is obviously important...
ReplyDeleteRaising your GPA might help, but I doubt that a 3.4 would take you out of the running. I have no idea how the selection process works, though.
ReplyDelete